Mt. Humphreys
Location of trailheads: Snowbowl Ski area, Flagstaff
Distance from lower trailhead to summit: 4.8 miles, one way
Distance from upper trailhead (near the lodge) to summit: 4.2 miles, one way

Trip report: September 7, 2004

Mt. Humphreys, one of the San Francisco Peaks, tops out at 12,633 feet, the highest point in Arizona. I'd never hiked at that altitude, and I was pleasantly surprised how it turned out, given that I'm not exactly in top shape. I saw a few people, though, who didn't fare so well, including one young, fit-looking guy who became ill just short of the summit and quickly headed back down. Another woman was struggling, sitting to rest every hundred yards or so, but she eventually made it to the top. Seeing these people feeling the effects of the thinner air, I continued sucking on my drinking tube every few minutes, and kept my pace slow but steady. The hydration really made a difference.

And what a gorgeous day for my first climb up that mountain. Clear skies and only a negligible breeze at the top, which meant a large group of tiny black bugs were up there sharing our snacks. I'd stuffed extra clothing into my daypack, including a fleece pullover, nylon jacket and the bottoms to my zip-off pants, but needed only the fleece to be comfortable while I ate my bagel-and-summer-sausage sandwich at the summit, surrounded by more than a dozen hikers. Regardless of the weather, though, definitely pack the layers; it's often much colder and windier at the top. (That may seem like a no-brainer, but I thought I'd mention it anyway.) The low rock wall at the summit offers only minimal protection.

The hike up Humphreys is, of course, strenuous, because the trail takes you up more than 3,000 feet from trailhead to summit, but the footpath is well maintained. If you're afraid of heights--or exposure, let's say--some sections above treeline may give you the willies. Take it from me, though, and I'm one who has a significant fear of falling and a wee bit of vertigo from time to time: This trail is nothing to be nervous about. Where it traverses steep slopes with no vegetation to lend an added sense of security, there is more than enough treadway and traction. Obviously, it would be a much different trail when covered with snow and ice, but on a dry day, it's very safe. I'd even go up there on a rainy day, though I certainly wouldn't want to be on that mountain--or any of the peaks, for that matter--during a thunderstorm. Evidence of lightning strikes, where the intense heat has turned rock to black glass, were easy to spot all along the ridge. So if you climb Humphreys during monsoon season, which is generally from early July through mid-August, start out early and head down before noon.

We'd considered taking our dog on this hike, but opted against it at the last minute. And we were glad we made that decision. While she probably would have done just fine, it was much easier for us to hike with both hands on our hiking poles than it would have been holding a leash. But the main reason I was glad we left our girl at home, is that there were so many other dogs on the trail. Unleashed dogs. And as friendly as I'm sure most of them are, Sassy would have been approached by curious pooches time and again. Often without any room to step out of the way, there would have been far too many snaps and growls on her part.

Anyhow, if you're up for a really good workout, I highly recommend a walk up Mt. Humphreys, and late August through September is an excellent time to go. You'll see Arizona in all directions, including the North Rim of the Grand Canyon on a clear day, which you're likely to enjoy at that time of year. And even if you don't go the last mile along the ridge, over several false summits to the actual summit, you can take a nice long lunch-break at the saddle between Humphreys and Agassiz, where the Weatherford Trail and Humphreys Trail meet. There, you'll enjoy a fantastic view of the Inner Basin.

Oh, and don't forget your sunscreen. You can get mighty cooked up there.

--Ramkitten