The last few miles of the Kek are outside of the Boundary Waters Wilderness Area.

Day 5
July 17, 2003
Today's miles: 13.5
Total miles: 52.5
Destination: Gunflint Outfitters/Gunflint Lodge

How beautiful night last night was, and today is absolutely gorgeous. In the distance, lightning lit up those huge cumulus clouds for hours, but the storm never came close enough for us to hear thunder. And when I woke up, I was treated to blue skies, loons and countless song birds. There was a chill in the air, but the cool temperature kept the mosquitoes quiet for a while and made for comfortable morning hiking, which began with me leading the way around the flooded section of trail to the creek, where we picked up the tread on the other side.

A significant portion of the distance to Bingshick Lake was extremely overgrown, the route barely discernible. At times, we expended considerable effort just pushing our legs forward through the woven underbrush. But I truly didn't mind. We passed several beautiful lakes and ponds, which glittered in the sun. When I'd stop walking and listen, I'd hear only the birds and bugs, until Allen got close enough for me to hear him pushing his way along the trail.

I stopped to wait for my hiking partner each time I came to a questionable spot where he might not go the same way, or when there was a significant obstacle in the trail. At one point, we had to pick our way around some fallen pines. Allen went first, inching along the trunk of a downed tree, breaking off branches as he went. Then he took a spectacular fall, ass over backpack, a reverse somersault down the slope. Thank God for the thick undergrowth, which padded and ultimately stopped his fall. That could have been a serious one.

So anyway, we stopped for a brief lunch break at Bingshick Lake, then hiked the remaining 3.5 miles of the Kek, most of which is outside the Boundary Waters and receives much more foot traffic than the rest of the trail. Most of those hikers come in for the day or spend a night or two at the Bingshick Lake campsites before heading back the way they came, following along the edge of Mine Lake and the remnants of old mines, some of which are visible from the trail, even with this thick summer vegetation.

After another four, hot miles, plus an extra mile thanks to a wrong turn, we arrived at Gunflint Outfitters, very ready for showers, cold drinks, pizza and calls home. We may spend tomorrow night here, also, if they have room. We need to sort out our food and discuss the Border Route Trail, which may very well be as overgrown and difficult to follow as the Kek. If we continue on course as planned, Allen wants to figure out where we'll camp each night, including some low-mileage days. The Kek really "kicked his butt," he says.

We rested at the trailhead before hiking on to Gunflint Lodge.

Oh, one last, really neat thing before I got to bed. Today there was a package waiting for me here at Gunflint Lodge, sent by A.T. hiker "Virginia Creeper" and his wife. A goody box! And we've never even met in person. "Creeper" and I have a mutual friend, known on the A.T. more as "Gaited Mule" than Frank Oliver. "Virginia Creeper" hiked with "Gaited Mule" in the south, while I met a "Thinner and Lighter Gaited Mule" on the trail in New England. "Creeper" and I have emailed some, and he'd asked me where I could get a maildrop on this hike. So I knew the package was coming. Still, it felt like a surprise. Reminded me of when I'd receive care packages at summer camp. Thank you, Mr. and Mrs. Virginia Creeper! Allen -- Stumped -- and I are enjoying the munchies and the thoughtful gesture even more.

Alrighty then, time for flashlight out. Ahhh, a night without mosquitoes buzzing in my ears. Bring on the thunderstorm! Cuz I'm cozy in a cabin.

--Ramkitten